I'm an ISA Certified Arborist working across Surrey and the surrounding area. I climb, trim and remove trees myself, grind stumps, detect disease, and brace trees that need reinforcement. I also handle cedar and laurel hedge work, western redcedar dieback, and tree planting. I work in Aldergrove, Boundary Bay, and throughout the region where windstorms and wet winters put pressure on older trees. I give you a free estimate and an honest assessment: some trees don't need to come down, and I'll tell you that straight. Call me at (778) 650-4915 to discuss what your property needs.
Tree Trimming, Tree Removal & Stump Grinding in Surrey BC
Tree trimming, removal and stump grinding across Surrey and nearby neighbourhoods
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Everything I do for your trees, in Surrey and the surrounding area
Tree Trimming: the Core of My Work
Trimming is what I do most days. I climb the job myself, which means nothing gets rushed or butchered by a crew moving fast through the neighbourhood. I take out the deadwood, the branches that are already gone and just waiting to fall, clear the roof and the driveway so you can use your property safely, and bring the crown back into balance. That balance matters: a tree that's lopsided will keep growing that way, and the weight can split limbs in the next windstorm.
Around the Surrey area, I'm mostly working with western redcedar, Douglas-fir, and big-leaf maple. A lot of these trees were standing long before the house went up, and they need different approaches. A cedar that's been topped years ago, cut flat across the top, grows back weak and bushy; I'll thin it properly instead. Sometimes what looks like a trimming job is really a sign that the tree needs disease detection or even removal. I walk you through what I plan to cut before I go up. You'll see exactly what comes down and why.
I bring my own chipper, so the brush disappears on the day. If the tree is genuinely hazardous or the damage is too far gone, I'll tell you straight. Call me for a free estimate anywhere in the Surrey area at (778) 650-4915.
Tree Removal in Tight Spaces
I'm known for removals where there's nowhere to go. A Douglas-fir leaning against the house, a back yard that drops into a ravine, a lot with no gate and a wet slope behind it. These are the jobs where I dismantle by rope, section by section, lowering every piece under control. I don't put a machine on saturated ground, and I don't rush the rigging. When the space is tight, the work takes longer and costs more thought than force.
Here in Surrey and the surrounding area, the City may require a permit for a private tree removal, and often that permission comes with a replacement condition attached. I check what applies to your property, file the application myself, and handle the paperwork so you don't have to. It's one less thing to worry about. If the tree is dead or diseased, an arborist report supports the case for removal. Sometimes what looks like a removal job turns out to be a candidate for cabling and bracing instead, and I'll tell you if that's what I see.
Once the tree is down, I can arrange wood chipping to clear the debris, or I can leave the rounds for you to handle. The stump comes out by grinding if you want the ground back to grade. Call me for a free estimate and I'll walk you through what the job looks like and how I'd approach it.
Cedar and Laurel Hedge Trimming
I trim hedges right through the season here in the Surrey area, and the two species you see most often are cedar and laurel. They grow very differently, which is why I handle them differently. Laurel puts on so much growth in our climate that it wants doing twice a year, usually spring and again in late summer. Cedar typically needs one good trim per year. Both can look ragged and overgrown if they have not been cut in a while, and that is where I come in.
When I arrive, I trim the top and both faces of the hedge wherever I can get at them safely. I often square things away with your neighbour so the whole hedge gets done in one visit, which saves time and keeps the line clean on both properties. Here is what you need to know before I start: laurel takes a hard renewal cut and comes back strong, even if I cut into older wood. Cedar is different. If I cut a cedar hedge into the brown wood (the dead interior), it will not regenerate from that cut. I will tell you that before I start, so you know what to expect and we can agree on how far back to go.
The work keeps your hedge dense, neat and healthy. If your cedar or laurel hedge has grown wild or you are not sure when it was last trimmed, I can assess it and give you a free estimate. Call me at (778) 650-4915 to book a time that works for you. I also handle tree trimming and tree pruning on the same visit if you have other work in mind.
Stump Grinding: Remove What's Left Behind
A stump left in your lawn becomes a problem sooner or later. The mower catches it. In our wet ground here in the Surrey area, it rots and slumps, leaving a soft spot that gets worse each season. I grind it down low enough that you can re-sod right over it, plant a shrub, or simply reclaim the space. That matters here, because the City of Surrey often requires a replacement planting condition when you remove a tree, and a properly ground stump lets you meet that requirement without complications.
I can handle stumps I've just felled, or ones somebody else walked away from years ago. Tell me where it sits, and I'll come out to look at it and give you a free estimate. I grind the stump below grade so there's nothing to trip over or catch equipment on. Depending on what works for your property, I can either backfill the hole with the wood chips (which settle and break down over time) or haul the whole lot away. The chips are also useful if you need them for mulch or pathway material elsewhere on your land. If your tree work involved tree removal, stump grinding finishes the job cleanly.
Call me at (778) 650-4915 to arrange your free estimate.
Tree Pruning: Structural Work That Protects Your Trees
Pruning is structural work, and I approach it differently than routine trimming. When I prune, I lighten the crown, open the centre, and cut the wind sail down, that last part matters on a coast where the wind arrives after three weeks of rain and the ground stays saturated. I show you the cuts before I climb, and looking costs you nothing. On a big tree I'll often split the job across two visits so the tree isn't shocked all at once.
I won't top a conifer, no matter who asks. A topped fir or cedar never really recovers, and you've bought yourself a bigger problem down the road: dense, weak regrowth that splits in the wind and costs more to fix later. Instead, I work within the tree's natural shape, removing dead wood, crossing branches and anything that rubs. If a tree is genuinely too large or too risky for pruning, I'll tell you, and we can discuss tree removal or cabling and bracing as alternatives.
Pruning keeps mature trees healthy and reduces the risk of windthrow in the Surrey area, where storms and wet winters put real stress on standing timber. It also opens sight lines, lets light into your garden and improves the tree's structure for decades to come. Call me at (778) 650-4915 for a free estimate and a walk-through of what your tree needs.
Cable and Brace to Save Split Trees
When a tree develops a split union or a cracked scaffold limb, you do not always have to remove it. I can often save it by installing a flexible cable between the leaders, sometimes with a brace lower down, and then I come back to monitor it over time. This matters more here in the Surrey area than in many places, because the City has by-laws that protect mature trees, and the municipality would far rather see one retained and stabilized than lost to the saw.
I fit the cable to work with the tree's natural movement rather than against it. The system is not invisible, but it is not meant to be, you will see the cable running through the canopy, and that visibility is part of how it works. If the limbs are still sound enough to hold their own weight with support, cabling gives them that help. I do refuse the job if the root plate is already lifting out of the ground; in that case, the tree's foundation is failing, and no cable will fix that. I will say so plainly, and we can talk about tree removal instead.
The work takes time and attention. I do not just install the cable and walk away. I return to inspect it, check how the tree is responding, and adjust if needed. If you have a split or cracked limb on a tree you want to keep, call me for a free estimate at (778) 650-4915, and I will climb up and tell you whether cabling makes sense.
Western Redcedar Dieback: What to Do When the Top Dies
If the upper third of your western redcedar has turned brown and thin, you're seeing something I find across the Surrey area after a stretch of dry summers. It's not a pest or disease, it's the tree telling you it ran short of water when it needed it most. I come out and look at how far down the die-back reaches, whether new growth at the tip is still alive, and what the tree is standing over. That last part matters: a cedar over a bedroom is different from one in an open yard.
Sometimes the honest answer is that deep summer watering will help the tree recover more than anything I can prune. Other times the damage has gone too far, or the tree's position makes it risky to keep. I'll walk you through what I see and tell you which path makes sense. If the tree needs to come down, that's a straightforward tree removal. If it can be saved, I'll show you how to water through the dry months and whether tree pruning will help it fill back in.
The work starts with a clear look at your cedar and an honest conversation. I charge nothing to come out and assess it. Call me at (778) 650-4915 for a free estimate.
Wood Chipping: Clearing Brush Right Where It Falls
When I finish a tree trimming or tree removal job, I chip everything on the spot. My chipper runs right there on your property, which means no second trip with a loaded truck, no mess tracked onto your driveway, and no pile of branches sitting around for weeks. If you've already done your own cutting and you're left with a heap of brush, I'll come out just for that. Either way, the work is the same: I feed the material through, and the chips land in a neat pile or go straight into a truck bed if you want them hauled away.
Cedar and Douglas-fir chips make excellent mulch for garden beds and pathways around the Surrey area, so most people keep them. Others prefer I take the whole load. Both options suit me fine. The chips are clean, free of soil, and ready to use or spread. Before I leave, I sweep the driveway so you're not left with scattered debris. To give you a fair estimate, just tell me roughly how big the pile is, whether it's waist-high and covers half your yard, or stacked against the fence, and I'll let you know what to expect.
Call me at (778) 650-4915 for a free estimate and to discuss whether you want to keep the chips or have me remove them.
Tree Planting and Transplanting
I plant species that belong in the Surrey area, trees and shrubs that can handle a wet January and a dry August without constant fussing. The mistake I spend most of my time fixing is sizing. People plant a tree or a hedge meant for a large lot into a space half that size, and then they call me back in six years to cut it down. I'll talk you out of another cedar hedge in full sun, because I'm the one who gets called back when it starts to thin and grey. I size honestly for your space and your site conditions, which means I may recommend something other than what you had in mind.
If you had a tree removed and the City of Surrey required a replacement as a condition of your permit, I plant to meet that requirement and give you the paperwork to close the file. If you're transplanting a specimen from one part of your property to another, I handle the digging, root protection and replanting so the tree settles in properly. I also work with tree removal sites where a salvageable tree can be moved rather than chipped. Autumn is the ideal window for planting here, because roots get established through the wet months and are ready before the first dry summer arrives.
I'll come out and walk your property, talk about what will thrive where, and give you a free estimate. Call me at (778) 650-4915 to book that conversation.
Tree Disease Detection and Diagnosis
When a tree starts losing its crown, shedding bark in patches, or showing conks and shelf fungi at the base, it needs a proper look before anyone decides what comes next. I come out to your property in the Surrey area, check the trunk collar, examine whatever root plate is visible, and give you a straight answer about what you're dealing with. A lot of what I find is not disease at all, it's drought stress, or root damage done during a renovation or construction work nearby. That diagnosis changes everything about how you manage the tree going forward.
My inspection focuses on the signs that matter. I look for discolouration, soft wood, cracks in the bark, and the overall vigour of the canopy. Sometimes what looks like disease is actually a structural problem that calls for cabling and bracing to stabilize the tree. Other times, the damage is irreversible, butt rot, for instance, cannot be treated, and I'll tell you that plainly rather than selling you a treatment that won't work. I document what I find so you have a clear record if you need to file a claim with your insurer or apply for a City of Surrey permit.
If a tree is too far gone and removal is the only option, I can discuss that with you, or I can recommend pruning strategies to improve its health if it's worth saving. Either way, you get honest information, not a sales pitch. Call me at (778) 650-4915 for a free estimate and a site visit.
Where I work
Areas of Surrey
Neighbouring municipalities
Let's talk about your tree
Tree services in Surrey and in the surrounding municipalities · No obligation · ☎ (778) 650-4915